Sealing Leaks- fluid - oil - coolant.

Leaks are a mechanics worst case scenario, it doesn't matter what is leaking it can cost quite a bit to the workshop if the mechanic does work that ends up leaking a fluid of some type. If your an owner operator of equipment you can spend big bucks on oil and fluid leaks.


For example the good hydraulic fluid costs around 100 USD for 5 gallons, you can buy the least expensive hydraulic oil not recommended for newer machinery past 1976 for around $45 USD. Most systems now days use variable displacement systems requiring the good oil for hydrostatic drives. None the less a small leak not only contaminates the ground but can cost a hundred dollars a day for every day the equipment is used without repair. In the past I have seen operators use machinery while it dripped oil onto the ground but that was when oil was $25 to 35 USD per 5 gallon bucket.



A coolant leak can cause damages by allowing the engine to overheat and the chemicals in coolant are very dangerous to animals and pets. It must taste good like a cool aid to them because a cat or dog will go right up to a coolant bucket and start lapping it up. Shortly after they die.



When a hydraulic hose is leaking the repair is simple, an O-Ring leaking can be simple and quick but a gasket between two surfaces needs to be addressed with using some type of sealant.

Loctite 515 most used in shop for all sealing purposes metal to metal or firm gasket including bolt thread locking.

Gascacinch sealer used to cement and retain gaskets like oil pan cork, valve covers cork or any gasket you need to keep in place while assembling.

ThreeBond 1215 for any aluminum cases without gaskets, works better than any other.

High Temperature Silicone Black where a flexible sealant is needed water jackets and so on.

High Tack for head gaskets.

When assembling parts and mechanical items the above chemicals can be used to assure there will be no leaks if all surfaces are clean and dry of oil. To accomplish that use powdered Tide laundry detergent and hot water to do the final clean and dry to your parts, air blow them if possible but at minimum use a clean rag and wipe them dry of water and detergent. Tide will clean the surfaces and allow all sealants to grip the metal.



When sealing fuel line fittings and threads on bolts that are put into housings that contain water or fluid use the white Teflon tape, that works very well but again make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.



The above sealants are common in most all workshops and work very well, I use the 515 for sealing threads, gasket surfaces that are not smooth and threads on bolts for locking into place. The Gascacinch cement sealant I use on one side of a gasket that I want to stick firmly in place when I assemble cases, oil pans, valve covers and other, the important thing is only use the cement on one side of the gasket and let dry before assembling the part. In this application it is important to cement one side of the gasket onto the surface that is most easy to get to because the gasket will stick solid and rip apart when disassembled. For example an oil pan gasket that has to be held perfectly in place on the oil pan to install onto the bottom of the engine block. Place a thin film onto the oil pan gasket surface and the surface of the gasket that sticks to the oil pan, let dry slightly and install the gasket onto the oil pan. After that is dry and holds the gasket in place apply a sealant like black silicone to the block surface and onto the topside of the oil pan gasket that is held in place. Assemble the oil pan to the engine block and snug the bolts , let dry for an hour or so and then torque the oil pan bolts to specified torque.



Important for all sealants is that you coat a thin film on both the surface of the component to be sealed and the gasket mating to that surface. When sealing two metal housings with no gasket apply the sealant to both metal surfaces and let set up for a few minutes before assembly.



The idea of cementing to hold in place a gasket is to cement it to the part that can be removed and cleaned easily, cementing a gasket means that when taken apart again you can guarantee for sure the gasket will be ripped upon disassembly and a new one required.



The black high temperature silicone I use for things and flanges that water is to be sealed inside. I rarely use the black silicone but in certain applications it is useful. The Triple Bond I use on all aluminum housings that have no gaskets, it is a must for sealing two aluminum cases that hold water, oil and are pressurized somewhat.



The spray high tack is necessary for head gaskets without silicone coating and general gaskets that need to be held in place.